Étoile Petal Top sewing pattern

We recommend light- to medium-weight wovens: cottons like broadcloth, sateen, lawn, and lightweight twill; silks with body like dupioni, taffeta, and shantung; and sheers like flocked tulle, lace, and eyelet. For the underlining fabric, we recommend: sturdy cotton muslin (calico) for opaque dress fabrics. For sheer fabrics, pick an underlining that will be both sturdy and attractive (since it will be visible from the outside of your dress). Good choices include cotton broadcloth, sturdy silks like shantung or faille, and other sturdy lining fabrics. For the lining, we recommend: light- to medium-weight cottons and lining fabrics. You will be sewing boning channeling to the lining, so it should be sturdy enough to stand up to the weight of the steel boning. For the tulle, we recommend: soft ballet tulle. Lots and lots of soft ballet tulle.

• Fabric for the bodice • Muslin (or other sturdy fabric) for underlining • Fabric for the lining • Tulle fabric for the optional Shoulder Wrap and/or Bustle • Thread to match • 1¼-in-wide (3.2 cm) fusible stay tape to stabilize the zipper (alternatively, cut a strip from a scrap of fusible interfacing yardage) • 11-in separating zipper • 3 yds (2.7 m) of ¼-in-wide (6 mm) spiral steel boning • Metal cutters and pliers • Boning tips or Teflon tape • 3 yds (2.7 m) of ½-in-wide (1.3 cm) boning channeling or bias tape • Six small snaps or hooks from hook- and-eye pairs (for the Shoulder Wrap) • 1 yd (0.9 m) of 1-in-wide (1.3 cm) ribbon (for the Bustle; alternatively, cut two lengths of tulle) • Four to six hooks from hook-and-eye pairs (for the Bustle)