Ninon Bodice 1655-1680 sewing pattern

Tightly woven midweight silks or worsted wools supported by layers of midweight linen, lightweight wool, and linen buckram, and lined in lighter weight linen or silk. Layer 1: Outer: Tightly woven mid-weight silks, and worsted wools in plain, twill, satin & damask weaves. Layer 1.5: OPTIONAL Outer support: Midweight linen, lightweight wool, or buckram made from mid to lightweight linen. Recommended if your outer fabric is thin and the boning channels will show through. Layer 2: Linen Support Layer: Heavyweight linen. Layer 3: Buckram Support Layer: Linen buckram (make your own from linen following the tutorial at thedreamstress.com) Layer 4: Body Lining: Lightweight linen or light-midweight silk. Layer 5: Sleeve Lining: Light-midweight silk or linen to match or complement Layer 1 Outer.

Boning: Synthetic Whalebone or German Plastic boning 6 mm x 1.5 mm or 7 mm x 1 mm: • 22-81 yards / 20-74 m Binding: • 5 1/2 yards/5 meters (Sizes 32-38); • 6 yards/5 ½ meters (Sizes 40-44); • 6 1/2 yards/6 meters (Sizes 46-52) of (1/2" / 1.2 cm) wide rayon petersham OR (1 1/4" / 3 cm wide strips of fabric cut on the straight of the grain. Sleeve Cuff Binding: • 1 1/4 yards/1.1 meters (Sizes 32-38); • 1 1/2 yards/1.4 meters (Sizes 40-44); • 1 3/4 yards/1.6 meters (Sizes 46-52) of 3/4" / 2 cm wide rayon petersham OR 1 3/4" / 4 cm wide strips of fabric cut on the straight of the grain. Lacing cord: • 3 1/2 yards / 3.2 meters linen or rayon round lacing cord. Thread: 60/2 and 80/3 linen thread, or quilter's cotton thread. Gum Tragacanth (historically accurate), Gum Arabica (historically probable) or Xanthan Gum (modern alternative): to make linen buckram. See the 'How to make linen buckram' tutorial at thedreamstress.com. TOOLS: Tapered sewing awl, handsewing needles, curved handsewing needles (optional), beeswax, thimbles, a bodkin for lacing, sturdy scissors or snips for cutting synthetic whalebone, sandpaper and/or a metal file.